Gretchen Kurz-April 3, 2019. Moist cornbread cradling a pat of butter the size of a bar of soap. The brains behind the megahits Uncle Boons and Uncle Boons … Bon Temps at 712 South Santa Fe Avenue. Here are the spots we’re obsessed with, whether for the food, the drinks, the vibe, or the mission behind it all. There are approximately 12 dishes on the menu at Khao Noodle Shop, each only a few bites or spoonfuls, and none costs more than $8. I later emailed Onal about the braised artichoke, and she sent me a delicate, multistep recipe involving olives, lemon peel, parsley, mint, and sweet onion. Esquire participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. —J.K. Seven Reasons at 2208 Fourteenth Street NW, Esquire's Best Restaurants in America, 2018, Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America 2015, The Best New Restaurants in America, 2013. Course 1: Snacks at Longoven mean a tiny nasturtium-covered carrot-mole tart, a fried squid ink “churro,” and nori crackers with smoked mackerel. There was so much more I wanted to know about Pang, about Kopitiam. Dear John’s, the deliciously retro brainchild of chef Hans Röckenwagner and his wife and business partner, Patti, as well as chef Josiah Citrin, is a time capsule with a shelf life: The building will be torn down in April 2021. Asheville, NC. Or that he brought on the Michelin-starred pastry chef Jeb Breakell to whip up as-fascinating-as-they-are-lovable desserts? THE MOVE: Grab one of everything from the pastry case to go—and a loaf of bread too. Eventually they reconnected and decided to move to Richmond, where they launched Longoven pop-ups in 2014. It’s Surti’s party and he’ll slice spiced roast pork if he wants to. Save Pin FB. The entire menu at Virtue is like a spread at a family reunion piled high with dishes that inspire such love. Here are 12 of the best this month. Baltimore (yeah, Baltimore) can now make rightful claim to having the sexiest third-date spot in America. This article appears in the Winter '20 issue of Esquire. Joy at 5100 York Boulevard, All it said on the menu was “braised artichoke.” (Having grown up in California, I feel a kinship with artichokes, but it’s pretty easy to mess them up. THE MOVE: Don’t share—each dish is only a few bites. Fact: Breakfast tacos just taste better outside. How she sought asylum in the U.S. a decade ago as an openly gay woman. But the more dishes I tried, the more I realized I’d only scratched the surface. Course 8: Beneath the tangle of agretti (a chive-like Italian vegetable), there’s roast lamb loin, and next to it is a pool of blackened sunchoke purée. THE MOVE: Ask about the daily specials on weekends and you will be rewarded. They reminded us that tasting menus can still inspire awe; that a classic steak tartare can taste brand-new alongside the right glass of cloudy Chenin Blanc; and that an egg salad sandwich lunch can be so damn good that you think about it while you’re eating dinner, and long after you’ve left town. How her cooking connects her back to her family. Le Comptoir du Vin at 1729 Maryland Avenue, Allison Plumer is cooking what you want to eat when it’s Friday night and you’d prefer not to ruin your appetite with overthinking. And the egg salad one made Instagram-famous by its orange-yellow yolk half-moons. Muffins and Lemon-Pistachio Loaf in the pastry case. And nowhere else are you going to eat sweets like the ones created by pastry chef Paola Velez, who deserves a James Beard Award nomination for trailblazing a way to serve habanero peppers as a dessert—accompanied by tres leches cake and elderflower snow. (Let’s just say it involves a stint in Alba, Italy, and many arduous hours in the catering world.) Shoot us a message on the tip line. 9:28 a.m. Yeah, I’m going to need a slice of the lemon-pistachio loaf cake, a piece of the chocolate banana bread, and one of every cookie (espresso shortbread, chocolate-hazelnut, oaty Anzac) to go. Sure, there wasn’t a lot of competition for Texas-style ’cue, but nevertheless Matt’s immediately became known as the best in the city. A gratis dessert when service is slow. Unfettered joy radiates from inside Seven Reasons as you stand outside the front door, and once you enter and sit down, that joy makes itself known—proudly, defiantly—in the riot of flavors and hues that chef Enrique Limardo sends out from the kitchen. It’s personal, direct, honest. Born outside of Nashville to parents who emigrated from Gujarat in western India, he gives of his heritage when he explains to 30-odd mostly white diners that the fragrant amber-tinged diamond under a layer of toasted coconut and sesame seeds is called dhokla, a common breakfast halfway around the world. Grouchy and groggy by the time I parked in front of Automatic, bummed out by one too many radio broadcasts about the Book of Revelation, I sat down on a barstool and saw the light. … So Do Black-Owned Businesses. The long-overdue rise of African-American chefs around the country is the most exciting culinary movement in the world. Making noodles from scratch isn't easy or fast, but Sirisavath says you can taste the labor and the love that goes into them. Or maybe I’ll just never leave. Kaya butter toast, with a thick layer of pandan leaf and coconut jam sandwiched between two golden slices of fluffy bread, is a must-order. Le Comptoir's menu changes almost daily, tied to both the seasons and whatever wines Liss is excited about. By Denise Mickelsen September 25, 2019 The result: dishes—like a tamal stuffed with goat barbacoa, and a thin, crispy milanesa made with quail and paired with a red mole—that taste totally new without being vain about it. (We mean this as a compliment: Bon Temps is a restaurant with multiple personalities.) First of all, it’s a full-on restaurant, from chef Alex Harrell and the team behind the beloved NOLA hangout Bacchanal. —A.S. Sure, ... Est. Just a little? —J.K. And a crispy pork katsu one. And the tight, well-curated natural wine list. On weekends there were rounds of new specials: fragrant assam (tamarind) curry; slow-cooked beef rendang. Server Destany Colagrossi works the lunch shift. April 2, 2019. Course 6: Manning turns pig ears into paper-thin sheets, then crowns them with peas and beans of all types. Monet’s dining room in Giverny inspired the breakfast room, and the dish set he used there inspired these hand-thrown custom plates from ceramist Jono Pandolfi. Behold Esquire’s Best New Restaurants, class of 2019, a list that celebrates what it means to eat well right now in America, with all its diversity and dynamism. She’s the one you meet when you walk in and who can school you on the significance (both cultural and personal) of nasi goreng and corn fritters, lobster noodles and clams Jimbaran-style, which are so packed with flavor you might as well be biting into oceanic truffles. Egg yolk ravioli with ham, peas, and brown butter, The restaurant’s ever-changing chalkboard menu, Roast chicken with fried potatoes and mojo rojo. The sauce was “scented with fragrance from mangda water beetle.” Pim Techamuanvivit’s menu at Nari (executed nightly by chef de cuisine Meghan Clark) overflows with lovely surprises like that. Mott Haven cafe La Morada is one of the small number of New York restaurants specializing in Oaxacan cuisine, and the family operation is best … Seven-month-old Yuka Hughes scrutinizes the offerings. GQ's Best New Restaurants in America, 2019 Brett Martin spent the past three months eating high and low, searching for the most delicious new dining establishments in … But did Whitaker really have to take the leftover bran from milling that flour and use it to ferment all sorts of electric, eyebrow-raising pickled vegetables? Yeah, we are aware that chef Lincoln Carson is fifty. Birmingham, AL. Which is exactly where you want to be. Cooks dip the pork cutlets in egg yolk, letting the excess drip off. Chef-owner Jessica Hicks decorates the Lemon-Pistachio Loaf. American chefs talk about opening “odes” to little spots they stumbled upon in Tokyo, and while this 10-seat space is indeed Montgomery and Akuto’s ode to Japan’s konbini (24-hour convenience stores), there is a palpable intensity to their level of study that makes Konbi entirely its own. Second, this is less a defined space and more a multiroom wonderland, with a sunny patio, elegant parlor rooms, and a cozy bar that feels straight out of a Hollywood movie set. —J.K. Get the recipe: Rice Porridge with Dashi, Additional Reporting: Andy Baraghani, Molly Baz, Hilary Cadigan, Christina Chaey, Elyse Inamine, Sarah Jampel, Carla Lalli Music, Meryl Rothstein, Jesse Sparks, Amiel Stanek, Anna Stockwell, Art & Design: Chris Cristiano, Chelsea Cardinal, Bryan Fountain, Christa Guerra, Copy & Research: Brian Carroll, Greg Robertson, Susan Sedman, Special Thanks: Emma Fishman, Michelle Heimerman, Sasha Levine, Michele Outland, Carey Polis, Adam Rapoport, Annalee Soskin, David Tamarkin, Photographs by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott, At Konbi they crack dozens of eggs each day for the signature, The muffin selection changes with the seasons: These are, Max Leonard’s housemade bread comes served with, To make the crispy-crunchy topper for her. The pair built Le Comptoir as an homage to a neighborhood restaurant in Lyon of the same name, which Mester liked so much that he convinced the chef to let him spend a night in the kitchen. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io, Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America, 2020, The New York Dinners We Thought We’d Have Again, Masterpiece Pies and the Mission Behind Them, It's Not Just the Food I Miss at Restaurants, Chef Michael Lomonaco Knows How to Start Over. I piled into the place with a bunch of friends and children, and the group devoured the fried Calabash crab claws with Old Bay aioli with such gluttonous alacrity that we had to ask for a second order, and then a third. That guy was Nick Montgomery, who opened Konbi with Akira Akuto; both are alums of David Chang’s Momofuku restaurants in New York. From a gastropub in Newton to a ramen shop in Chinatown, from a BYOB private dinner party in Brookline to a Cambridge bakery by way of Iran, these are some of the most interesting new restaurants and pop-ups to debut in the most difficult year the restaurant industry has seen I should know. But with rising star Ashleigh Shanti working side by side in the kitchen with Asheville luminary John Fleer, the history lesson happens to be delicious. Alewife at 3120 East Marshall Street, I have grown wary of new Italian restaurants. Jeff Gordinier is Esquire's Food & Drinks Editor. Sukiyaki with glass noodles, fermented tofu, coconut cream, and a soft boiled quail egg. ALCOVE. Wanna try Kopitiam's food? Instead, there’s a refreshing graciousness and hospitality—a sense that everyone is actually happy you’re here. Oh, and BYOB! —J.K. Calling this a bar is an understatement. From the laid-back vibe inside—the high-top tables, the stools spray-painted by friends, the tight-knit staff, the sheer fun of the place—I could feel Sirisavath’s excitement at doing things his way. Commence the evening with a mezcal pickleback infused with charred corn and smoked chiles and you’ll be drifting through the Hill Country before you know it. Chef Adam Evans, a product of Muscle Shoals, is paying homage to a specifically southern tradition of seafood cookery, and he’s doing it in a spacious, wide-windowed room that feels like a boat club where nobody’s a snob. Course 11: The black-sesame-tahini-chocolate gold bar now has a cult following, but don’t sleep on the blueberry macarons, pâte de fruit, and sage-caramel bonbons. THE PLAYERS: Chef-owners Andrew Manning, Megan Fitzroy Phelan, and Patrick Phelan, THE SETUP: Tweezer food you actually want to eat. These are the restaurants that reminded us just how special dining out can be. Then, because I was confident that this soap would improve my life, I ordered it on the flight home. Rezdôra at 27 East Twentieth Street, Someone mentioned this place to me when I was in North Carolina, and I made the stupidly impulsive decision to rent a car and drive seven hours to Alabama on a sweltering Sunday. He eventually settled in Portland and opened a trailer—Matt’s BBQ—in the parking lot of a pawnshop. Sushi Note at 13447 Ventura Boulevard; Odo at 17 West Twentieth Street, When you’re craving Texas barbecue, the first place you imagine finding it probably isn’t alongside a clean and tidy hotel lobby in the Pacific Northwest. Occasionally dim sum can be a bit of a bait-and-switch: divine in the abstract, disappointing in execution, at least in the United States. It all starts with the delightful couple who opened it: Rosemary Liss, an artist whose residency at the Nordic Food Lab in Copenhagen involved making a quilt out of dehydrated kombucha mothers, and Will Mester, who was chef de cuisine at the restaurant that used to be in this same space, Bottega. Go all in. Jeune et Jolie at 2659 State Street, In the fifteen years since he gave the American restaurant scene a hard elbow to the sternum with the arrival of Momofuku Noodle Bar, David Chang had never opened a restaurant that wholeheartedly bear-hugged his Korean heritage—until Kāwi, that is. Seven Reasons at 2208 Fourteenth Street NW, As I held an oyster to my nose, I noticed something. THE MOVE: Book a room at the Hotel Peter & Paul; pretend you live here. As Lower East Siders with white sneakers and AirPods crammed into the space, Pang seemed to only dig deeper. How she hasn’t seen her parents in 11 years. Get the recipe: The tasting menu option comes with a bowl of this cozy, congee-like porridge. At Konbi they crack dozens of eggs each day for the signature pork katsu sandwich. Best Dining in New York City, New York: See 1,424,956 Tripadvisor traveler reviews of 13,324 New York City restaurants and search by cuisine, price, location, and more. What’s to hate about that? THE PLAYERS: Managing partner Joaquin Rodas, chef Alex Harrell, general manager Lisa Nguyen, THE SETUP: 19th-century-church becomes old-world hotel bar, THE ORDER: Duck egg omelet with caviar and any spritz you feel like. But Hutong, a Hong Kong must-visit that has opened an outpost in midtown Manhattan, fully delivers on the glorious promise of everything dim sum can be. THE SETUP: Snack-size Laotian at high-top communal tables, day and night, THE ORDER: Boat noodles, khao soi, moutsayhang (spiced pork-and-rice bites), shrimp bites. After years of running his pop-up restaurant VEA, Surti can turn any space into a kitchen, including the bar counter of Tailor. What about a restaurant? S dining landscape sense that everyone is actually happy you ’ re here with Madeira fiesta you never want know. A party, Detroit t out of the three chefs behind it succumb to copying another... What dumpling dreams are made of, Italy, and a more perfect artichoke than the I! 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